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| to Angel's BARN |
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| Our rabbitry began in the basement of our home. We used stack cages with plastic drop pans and cleaned daily. It was quite labor intensive to keep our home tidy and odor free. Although the comfort of builtin heat/air and the convience of immediate access were definite pluses. In less than 2 years we had outgrown available space and the decision was made to build a barn. We are now the proud owners of a 24' x 60' pole barn with siding and roof shingles to match our home, locking entry/storm doors/windows help it blend in with the neighborhood. Finishing touches (shutters and porch) along with landscaping are not yet complete. Ventilation fans in the eaves are preset which help regulate the temperature. A huge floor fan keeps the air circulating. An automatic watering system is on the wish list:) The interior sports an office, 24 hanging holes, storage/work area and a couple stalls. River gravel covers perforated pipe every 2 1/2' in the floor and provides excellant drainage. We can now torch and pressure wash cages where they hang instead of dragging them outdoors. Yeah! Rabbit waste and scattered hay falls to the ground and is worked over by the chickens. A pitchfork and loose raking once a month or so keeps the floor tidy enough. |
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| A flock of Silkie chickens earn their keep by running beneath the hanging rabbit cages keeping the flies under control, scratching and turning the bunny waste continuosly and cleaning up spilled grain. This breeds inability to fly is a definite plus. No roosting on cages or soiling Angora wool! |
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| The Boys |
| HOW TO raise day old auction calves... Raising two or three together is easiest. First never use medicated powder milk replacer! Do not overfeed! Make first feedings 1/2 usual amount, they will act starved but it is important to start out slowly. For a weak calf you may need to try 4-5 small feedings at first. Prepare a warm stall with fresh clean hay. IF it is cold- hang a heat lamp in one corner to take the chill off. Arrange hay bales to help ward off drafts if necessary. Following these directions we have not lost a single calf nor have we had any scours. IF your calf shows signs of illness, please consult your veternarian! |
| The first 10 days- Mix unmedicated "milk base" calf replacer according the manufacturer's directions with WARM water. Beat in one egg for each calf. If possible add 1 quart goats milk per calf. (I thaw frozen goat colostrum for the first 3 days whenever available- it really makes a difference in the survival rate!) Also add 1t. powdered probiotic to milk each feeding (per calf)- this encourages a healthy rumen. Feed at regular times 3 x daily. I feed at 7am - 1pm - 7pm After the milk feeding, rinse bucket/bottle and refill with electrolyte water solution. I hang nipple bucket on fence and refill it as needed between milk feedings. Calves drink water more readily from the nipple they are used to and you want to encourage water consumption especially in hot weather. First Month- After about a week you will want to begin calf pellets/grain and hay. You will have to place it in their mouths and they will make a mess but sooner or later they get the hang of it:) Hay/grain should be available to nibble at all times. Continue to prepare milk base calf replacer according to manufacturer's directions. (The egg is no longer needed- continue goat milk and probiotic powder for a full month if possible) By one month of age you can drop the afternoon feeding and just milk feed twice daily. Offer water in nipple bucket as before but you can drop the electrolyte solution. Two months and over- Switch to a soy based milk replacer if you want (it is cheaper) Feed milk and grain twice daily. Calves also begin to use salt/mineral block about this time. Your calves should be filling out well and enjoying free range pasture in addition to milk/hay/grain by now. Consult your veternarian concerning castration, vaccinations and worming schedule. |
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